Training Techniques

There are two links at the bottom of this entry to a couple of articles written by Lisa Mullinax, CPDT. Although they are personal opinion, I believe her to be very rational, insightful, and her opinions backed up by experience and research.

I'm not one that usually comes out against a particular person and I can usually find and try to say something nice about everyone. I do believe the techniques Mullinax is arguing against need close scrutiny and pet owners should find more resources than a popular tv show to train their dog/s, particularly when so many experienced trainers and organizations have come out against those techniques.

The second article is in response to comments made about the first article. They are comments I constantly see on boards which Millinax does an excellent job of countering, explaining, and dispelling.

I don't want to be a person that just says "Don't do that" or "You're doing it wrong." So again, I'll mention a few of my favorite trainers/behaviorists to go along with the suggestions by Mullinax: Ian Dunbar, Patricia McConnell, Victoria Stillwell, Karen Pryor, Sarah Kalnajs. All of these trainers are published writers (Mudd Puppies carries some of their books), and their websites can be found on my dog links page.

Finally, the links to the articles:
http://www.4pawsu.com/dogpsychology.htm
http://www.4pawsu.com/cesarfans.htm

Puppies for X-mas

Dogs go through several changes in the first few months of life known as sensitive periods. The stimuli they are exposed to during these times can have a lasting effect on a dog and should be considered when bringing a new puppy into the home. I want to speak a little on what is known as the "fear" period because it coincides with the 8 week time period puppies are usually adopted.

During this sensitive period the puppies will form attachments to places, people, and other animals. It is necessary that the puppies have contact with other dogs during this period so socialization can occur with their own species. Puppies exposed to other stimuli, including other species and places, between the fifth and ninth week have the fewest problems later in life relating to those species or similar situations. It is imperative that herding and guarding puppies be exposed to the animals they will be interacting with later in life for proper socialization to occur with the livestock. As little as 20 minutes of interaction a day between the fourth and twelfth may be all that is necessary for this inter-species socialization to occur and has been shown to be the optimal period for dogs to become socialized to humans. However, the more concentrated the interaction, the better the effect.

Stimulation, or lack thereof, at this point will have a very strong influence on later behavior which can be difficult, if not impossible to change or modify later. During this period, aversive stimuli can have a lasting effect.

Because X-mas is such an excitable time, a new puppy can become withdrawn or fearful. However, to socialize a new puppy with their new family, it is a good idea to have a few days off to spend time with him.

If you want to give a puppy as a gift, I suggest giving the recipient a leash and collar as a gift, or perhaps a card with something written on it to the effect of "valid for one new puppy." Then, perhaps the rest of the day can be spent placing the dog bed, kennel, dishes etc. After X-mas, when things have settled down a little, the new puppy can be picked up. As most people get the week between X-mas and New Year off, this is an ideal bonding time as well.

For more information on sensitive periods in dogs, see:

Canine Behavior: A Guide for Veterinarians (1999) by Bonnie Beaver

How Dogs Think: Understanding the Canine Mind (2004) by Stanely Coren

The Art of Raising a Puppy (1991) by The Monks of New Skete

The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour and Interactions with People (2007) by James Serpell

Puppies for Sale at Mudd Puppies

I've been receiving a lot of calls lately from people asking if we had certain breeds of dogs for sale. It is our policy to never sell, advertise or endorse any breeder or the sale of any dog. This may seem a bit extreme, but there is good reason for it. Missouri leads the country in the number of puppy mills. Because it is impossible for us to check every "breeder," we have just made a blanket policy.

For anyone who still doesn't know, a puppy mill (in simplest terms) is a breeder who breeds solely for profit with no concern for the health or well being of the dogs.

What we suggest and recommend is checking with your local shelter. Here in Columbia, there is the Central Missouri Humane Society, Columbia Second Chance, and Happy Tails. If you are looking for a specific breed, there are breed specific rescue organizations, such as the American Brittany Rescue where I got my Brittany. There are links on our links page to all of these organizations. If you are looking for one of the rescues, a quick Google search will bring up what you need.

For more information on Puppy Mills check these links:
http://www.puppymillrescue.com/what_is_a_puppy_mill.htm
http://www.maal.org/Puppy-Mills.asp
http://www.prisonersofgreed.org/

Dominance Theory

There is a lot of information and television programs that tout the merits of being the "pack leader" or "alpha dog." At best, this method is misunderstood and poorly defined by the media and proponents of this method.

The theory itself has been loosing favor in the pet training field for several years. The most highly respected trainers (by their peers) use non-aversive training techniques. These include Ian Dunbar, Patricia McConnell, and Karen Pryor. All are published writers and well worth checking into.

More info on the topic can found at:
http://www.clickertraining.com/node/2297
http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/images/stories/Position_Statements/dominance%20statement.pdf

I think this bares repeating

I wanted to revisit the subject of different types of collars. As reasearch and articles have been written by people much more informed than I, I'll just leave a few links to their research. I will say that as long as I own Mudd Puppies, we will never carry or sell any aversive training collars and will always recommend flat collars as "a place to hang their tags."

There's a lot more information out there, but the research done since 1980 (the first study I'm aware of) all point to the same thing.

http://www.dogremedies.com/dangers_choke_pinch_shock.html

http://www.helpinganimals.com/animalsHome_dogs_collar.asp

Humane Society Files Class Aciton Lawsuit Against Petland

Because Missouri leads the country in the number of puppy mills, I thought this relevant.

Some thoughts on the matter include:

If the "breeder" won't let you see their facilities, it's probably a mill.

Any dog can have papers if the parents are known, this does not mean they are papers from the AKC or the dog has been properly bred. Some organizations have reportedly been formed to give dogs papers even though they are of questionable breeding. A good guideline is to look for AKC paperwork and possibly the denotation of champion for one or both parents.

NEVER buy dog from a pet store as they are almost guaranteed to be from a mill.

There are a number of rescue centers (like the humane society) and breed specific rescue organizations (like the American Brittany Rescue) which test for temperament, sociability, etc. which would be a much better choice. You may not get a show quality dog, but you'll get a great companion.

There is a wealth of knowledge on the internet or at your local Humane Society about puppy mills and how to avoid them. More information about the suit can be found at

http://www.hsus.org/press_and_publications/press_releases/petland_litigation_sm_031709.html

Dangers of Choke Collars

I recently came across a study on choke chains done in 1992. The findings concluded that choke collars can damage the cervical sympathetic nerve, the neck and back vertebrae, and cause foreleg paralysis among other things.

I personally believe collars should only be used as a place to hang a dog's tags. And with all the accessories available today that work on principles other than brute force, there's really no valid reason to use a choke collar.

I am a strong advocate of head collars and harnesses (perhaps that's another blog) although you should talk with a certified trainer before attempting to train with either.

For more information on the study, search for 1992, Sweden, and Hallgreen.