I just finished reading an interesting paper on how often you should train. I mean I literally just finished it, so I may have some other thoughts later.
This study was just published a little over a month ago, and it has lit up a lot of the discussion boards I'm on. I believe it is an important study in that it is the first real look at how often you should train your dog for the optimum acquisition of a behavior, but the biggest flaw - which was discussed at length on one of the boards - is that the dogs used were laboratory animals used for drug testing that did not have the same stimulus as a household pet, for example.
That being said, to put my interpretation to the findings, it shows that it is just as important for the dogs to have time to process the information they have learned as the training session themselves. What the study found was that one session, one time a week showed the best acquisition of the behavior. The worst were the dogs who were trained in three back to back sessions every day.
My initial thoughts are pretty much the same as before I read the study, although I may have other ideas as I think over what I've read. Particularly when you first start training your dog, keep the sessions short. I recommend in my puppy classes that you start with about five minute training sessions once a day. Always keep an eye on your dogs stress and frustration level and if they are getting too stressed, frustrated, or distracted, stop. Once the dog starts getting used to the training you can extend the time, although I usually don't recommend going over 15 minutes. Also, once they start to figure out the training process, you may be able to train two or three times a day.
Unfortunately, we can't draw any definite conclusions until more research is done, but this is a start. For the time being, keep your training sessions short, fun, and be aware of the state of your dog. If he's not having fun, stop and come back to it later.
Demant, H., et al., The effect of frequency and duration of training sessions on acquisition and long-term memory in dogs. Appl. Anim. Behav. Sci. (2011), doi:10.1016/j.applanim.2011.05.010
Saturday, November 5, 2011
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Try this at home
First I wanted to apologize for being silent on the blog for so long. As I mentioned in my last entry, we've been making a lot of changes and adding some new features (check out our newsletter for one) and these things take time. We've also been working on several outside projects including Paws in the Park and the upcoming Open House at Columbia Canine Sports Center this weekend. Hopefully, once again, I can get back to the blog and share some relevant information about training, behavior, and the like.
There has been a lot of discussion in the forums I participate in on disclosure of training techniques. I would be apprehensive of anyone who is not willing to share their methods. Usually these equate to some method of aversive training, aversive being hurting your dog to get him to do what you want. This is not always the case, but see my blog on choosing a trainer.
So, with that in mind, here is my training method. I'll try to stay to the point and not add too much back information here, but save it for another time.
It is important to understand that a dog, or any animal, learns more for being reinforced for the behavior you want than punished for the behavior you don't. If you reinforce the desired behavior, the dog, person, chinchilla, or whatever will try harder each successive time. Using punishment, the dog will only do enough to avoid being punished.
For most of my training I use what is called "marker training," also known as "clicker training." I like to use a clicker because it is a distinct sound that carries over a lot of other noises. In class I teach the use of the word "yessssss," drawing out the "s" to make it distinct from just saying "yes" in normal conversation. You can use whatever you like. It works like this: I start with charging the marker. You simple click and give the dog a treat, click and give the dog a treat, click and give the dog a treat. This teaches the dog that every time he hears the click, good things happen.
I'll use a sit for this example, just for clarity's sake. You can wait for the dog to sit on his own, or you can lure the dog into position. As soon as the dog's bottom hits the floor, click and treat. Do this a few times. Then add the word "sit." By this time he should know the behavior you're looking for and will sit quickly on his own. If not, lure him into position, click and treat.
Usually you only want to spend about five minutes on training at a time to begin with. You can go up to about 15 minutes, but I don't recommend any more than that in one session.
Most trainings I've talked to or read say if the dog does the behavior five to seven times in a row without fail, you can move to the next step. In this case, the next step would be duration. Ask for the sit. When the dog sits, delay the click and treat for about a second. Once he can do this, move up to two seconds, then three, then five, etc. Be sure to go at a slow enough pace that your dog doesn't get frustrated, but fast enough to keep his interest.
Suppose in the first session you get a three second sit. Next session, take a step or two back and just go for a one or two second sit. This should go pretty fast and you should be able to move past it and past the three second sit quickly.
One thing detractors often say about this method is they don't want their dog working for treats. This is a total misunderstanding of the method. Just like people work for a paycheck or do hobbies for enjoyment, we want the dog to work because he wants to. But, for basic obedience in particular, the point is to have the dog offer the behavior in real life situations when you may not have a treat handy or the dog is not in "training mode."
So, a word about fading treats. Once the dog is sitting consistently, ask for a sit, click and treat. Ask for a sit, say "good boy" and give lots of praise. ask for a sit, click and treat. Ask for a sit, "good boy." Next session, ask for a sit, click and treat. Ask for a sit, "good boy." Ask for a sit, "good boy." Ask for a sit, click and treat. You want to put the click and treat on an intermittent schedule so the behavior is only occasionally reinforced that way. Because the sit has a history of being reinforced with a treat, his emotional response will be the same whether the treat is delivered or not. (You should never click without giving a treat or it will start to lose its effectiveness. This is why I like to use "good boy.) For "proofing," you may want to reinforce the sit with a click and treat from time to time. Because I think a sit is so important, I start each training session with a sit, click and treat to get my dogs into the training mindset, then I end the session with a sit so we always end on a good note but also to proof the behavior.
I won't get into problem behaviors here because this is about my training techniques, not behavior modification. If you have questions about that though leave them here or feel free to e-mail me.
Two final thoughts. First, I try to never prompt (touch or force) the dog into position. Pushing on the hips to get a dog to sit, for example, can cause or aggravate hip problems and although they make take a little longer to figure it out, once they know you want them to sit, they've got it, and a lot better than if they wait for you to put them in position. Second, I never punish a dog for the wrong behavior, but reinforce the right behavior. If the dog is doing something he shouldn't, I don't tell him what I don't want, but what I do want. I simply can't understand why someone would want a dog if they felt it was going to be a constant struggle to maintain some misconception of dominance. I want a companion and hope the same for you.
If you want to learn more about my techniques, here's an excellent list of some of my favorite books to get you started:
Family Friendly Dog Training by Patricia McConnell and Aimee Moore
The Puppy Primer by Patricia McConnell and Brenda Skidmore
Clicker Training for Dogs by Karen Pryor
The Thinking Dog: Crossover to Clicker Training by Gail Tamases Fisher
There has been a lot of discussion in the forums I participate in on disclosure of training techniques. I would be apprehensive of anyone who is not willing to share their methods. Usually these equate to some method of aversive training, aversive being hurting your dog to get him to do what you want. This is not always the case, but see my blog on choosing a trainer.
So, with that in mind, here is my training method. I'll try to stay to the point and not add too much back information here, but save it for another time.
It is important to understand that a dog, or any animal, learns more for being reinforced for the behavior you want than punished for the behavior you don't. If you reinforce the desired behavior, the dog, person, chinchilla, or whatever will try harder each successive time. Using punishment, the dog will only do enough to avoid being punished.
For most of my training I use what is called "marker training," also known as "clicker training." I like to use a clicker because it is a distinct sound that carries over a lot of other noises. In class I teach the use of the word "yessssss," drawing out the "s" to make it distinct from just saying "yes" in normal conversation. You can use whatever you like. It works like this: I start with charging the marker. You simple click and give the dog a treat, click and give the dog a treat, click and give the dog a treat. This teaches the dog that every time he hears the click, good things happen.
I'll use a sit for this example, just for clarity's sake. You can wait for the dog to sit on his own, or you can lure the dog into position. As soon as the dog's bottom hits the floor, click and treat. Do this a few times. Then add the word "sit." By this time he should know the behavior you're looking for and will sit quickly on his own. If not, lure him into position, click and treat.
Usually you only want to spend about five minutes on training at a time to begin with. You can go up to about 15 minutes, but I don't recommend any more than that in one session.
Most trainings I've talked to or read say if the dog does the behavior five to seven times in a row without fail, you can move to the next step. In this case, the next step would be duration. Ask for the sit. When the dog sits, delay the click and treat for about a second. Once he can do this, move up to two seconds, then three, then five, etc. Be sure to go at a slow enough pace that your dog doesn't get frustrated, but fast enough to keep his interest.
Suppose in the first session you get a three second sit. Next session, take a step or two back and just go for a one or two second sit. This should go pretty fast and you should be able to move past it and past the three second sit quickly.
One thing detractors often say about this method is they don't want their dog working for treats. This is a total misunderstanding of the method. Just like people work for a paycheck or do hobbies for enjoyment, we want the dog to work because he wants to. But, for basic obedience in particular, the point is to have the dog offer the behavior in real life situations when you may not have a treat handy or the dog is not in "training mode."
So, a word about fading treats. Once the dog is sitting consistently, ask for a sit, click and treat. Ask for a sit, say "good boy" and give lots of praise. ask for a sit, click and treat. Ask for a sit, "good boy." Next session, ask for a sit, click and treat. Ask for a sit, "good boy." Ask for a sit, "good boy." Ask for a sit, click and treat. You want to put the click and treat on an intermittent schedule so the behavior is only occasionally reinforced that way. Because the sit has a history of being reinforced with a treat, his emotional response will be the same whether the treat is delivered or not. (You should never click without giving a treat or it will start to lose its effectiveness. This is why I like to use "good boy.) For "proofing," you may want to reinforce the sit with a click and treat from time to time. Because I think a sit is so important, I start each training session with a sit, click and treat to get my dogs into the training mindset, then I end the session with a sit so we always end on a good note but also to proof the behavior.
I won't get into problem behaviors here because this is about my training techniques, not behavior modification. If you have questions about that though leave them here or feel free to e-mail me.
Two final thoughts. First, I try to never prompt (touch or force) the dog into position. Pushing on the hips to get a dog to sit, for example, can cause or aggravate hip problems and although they make take a little longer to figure it out, once they know you want them to sit, they've got it, and a lot better than if they wait for you to put them in position. Second, I never punish a dog for the wrong behavior, but reinforce the right behavior. If the dog is doing something he shouldn't, I don't tell him what I don't want, but what I do want. I simply can't understand why someone would want a dog if they felt it was going to be a constant struggle to maintain some misconception of dominance. I want a companion and hope the same for you.
If you want to learn more about my techniques, here's an excellent list of some of my favorite books to get you started:
Family Friendly Dog Training by Patricia McConnell and Aimee Moore
The Puppy Primer by Patricia McConnell and Brenda Skidmore
Clicker Training for Dogs by Karen Pryor
The Thinking Dog: Crossover to Clicker Training by Gail Tamases Fisher
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Ch-Ch-Ch-Changes
We've been in business a little over three years. Now that we know how things are working and what's not, it's time to make a few changes. Hopefully all good.
If you follow our Facebook page, you know that we'll be changing our prices on August 15. Instead of just an average price across the board, we're making the price coincide with the size of the dog. We will still give a discount for a second dog of equal or lesser cost.
While on the topic of social media, we've also started a Twitter account at Mudd_Pupps_CoMO. At present, the plan is for this will be a place to list in-store events and possibly some specials or online coupons.
Another change will be the punch cards will now be kept at the store. This will hopefully be one less thing to worry about. Cards tend to be forgotten, lost, or destroyed by water. This should eliminate these problems.
Next, I'm considering starting a monthly newsletter. My intention for this is to have an article or two on dog training, hygiene, or something along those lines. I will also have a calender of events around town that are dog friendly. Let me know if there is anything else you'd like to see and I'll try to get in all reasonable ideas.
I'm looking into expanding our retail section. If there are any products you would like to see, let me know and I'll check into it. Keep in mind that I will not carry anything that I wouldn't use on my own dog including choke chains, pinch collars, spray collars, shock collars, or any other aversive equipment. More information about that in my other posts, or feel free to ask me.
Another idea I had was to set up a photography studio in the store. In my previous life I was a photographer and graphic artist. I think it would be fun to do, but need to explore the idea a bit more and make sure I'm not overextending myself. I'll keep you posted.
I am also considering having activities at the store. Possible about training, grooming, or other areas of interest. This will be something we need to explore a bit more also.
At the risk of getting too personal, I left a very lucrative career as a graphic artist to work with dogs. Sure, I want to make a living at it too, but I really love what I'm doing. So if you have any ideas, thoughts, comments, or even constructive criticism, let us know and we will seriously consider it.
If you follow our Facebook page, you know that we'll be changing our prices on August 15. Instead of just an average price across the board, we're making the price coincide with the size of the dog. We will still give a discount for a second dog of equal or lesser cost.
While on the topic of social media, we've also started a Twitter account at Mudd_Pupps_CoMO. At present, the plan is for this will be a place to list in-store events and possibly some specials or online coupons.
Another change will be the punch cards will now be kept at the store. This will hopefully be one less thing to worry about. Cards tend to be forgotten, lost, or destroyed by water. This should eliminate these problems.
Next, I'm considering starting a monthly newsletter. My intention for this is to have an article or two on dog training, hygiene, or something along those lines. I will also have a calender of events around town that are dog friendly. Let me know if there is anything else you'd like to see and I'll try to get in all reasonable ideas.
I'm looking into expanding our retail section. If there are any products you would like to see, let me know and I'll check into it. Keep in mind that I will not carry anything that I wouldn't use on my own dog including choke chains, pinch collars, spray collars, shock collars, or any other aversive equipment. More information about that in my other posts, or feel free to ask me.
Another idea I had was to set up a photography studio in the store. In my previous life I was a photographer and graphic artist. I think it would be fun to do, but need to explore the idea a bit more and make sure I'm not overextending myself. I'll keep you posted.
I am also considering having activities at the store. Possible about training, grooming, or other areas of interest. This will be something we need to explore a bit more also.
At the risk of getting too personal, I left a very lucrative career as a graphic artist to work with dogs. Sure, I want to make a living at it too, but I really love what I'm doing. So if you have any ideas, thoughts, comments, or even constructive criticism, let us know and we will seriously consider it.
Saturday, June 18, 2011
How to Alpha Roll
In a word: DON'T
This topic has come up in a few forums I participate in. As usual, I've put a link to an excellent article at the end of this entry but wanted to add a few thoughts of my own.
The Alpha Roll was popularized by The Monks of New Skete in their book "The Art of Raising a Puppy." In the second edition they retracted and apologized for the advice. Dogs just don't do it, and people do not have the capability to read the signals if it were appropriate.
In the 30+ years Dr. David Mech has been studying wolves, he said in an interview that only three times has he seen what he would consider an Alpha Roll (if I remember correctly, but certainly less than five). But this also goes back to what I've said before, that dogs are not wolves.
So, what are we seeing? Remember that dominance is not a personality trait, but an aspect of a relationship. Just because one dog is being aggressive or acting inappropriately, it does not mean he is dominant. He does not become dominant until the other dog submits. However, that relationship may change in seconds.
Take for example if I'm walking down the street and someone walks up to me and punches me in the face. Who's dominant? If I fall on the ground crying then I have made the other person dominant in that situation by submitting. But what if I hit them back? Does that make me dominant? It all depends on what the other person does. And so it goes.
Back to the question, what are we seeing? One thing may be play behavior. Play in dogs is usually mock hunting or mock sexual behavior. In mock hunting, the dogs will chase, nip, soft-bite, etc. One dog may roll over on his back, exposing his belly, but the dog does this willingly. This can also be a way for one to say to the other "I'm am not a threat. We are just playing."
In another instance, we need to remember that dogs are much more scent oriented than we are. When greeting, we've all seen dogs sniff each other's back sides and genitals. One dog my roll over to expose their genitals and make them more accessible.
And another instance would be access to a resource, whether it's a toy, food, or whatever one or both dogs may want. In the face of a potential conflict, one dog may submit to the other saying "you want that much more than I do, so you go ahead." As shown the Bristol study ("Dominance in domestic dogs – useful construct or bad habit?," October 2009) that may change depending on the next resource, situation and desire for that resource.
The take away message is that dogs are not dominant by nature, they do not Alpha Roll, and even if they did, we could not tell when it would be appropriate, and all it does is scare your dog and damage your relationship.
http://companionanimalsolutions.com/blogs/dangers-of-alpha-rolling/
This topic has come up in a few forums I participate in. As usual, I've put a link to an excellent article at the end of this entry but wanted to add a few thoughts of my own.
The Alpha Roll was popularized by The Monks of New Skete in their book "The Art of Raising a Puppy." In the second edition they retracted and apologized for the advice. Dogs just don't do it, and people do not have the capability to read the signals if it were appropriate.
In the 30+ years Dr. David Mech has been studying wolves, he said in an interview that only three times has he seen what he would consider an Alpha Roll (if I remember correctly, but certainly less than five). But this also goes back to what I've said before, that dogs are not wolves.
So, what are we seeing? Remember that dominance is not a personality trait, but an aspect of a relationship. Just because one dog is being aggressive or acting inappropriately, it does not mean he is dominant. He does not become dominant until the other dog submits. However, that relationship may change in seconds.
Take for example if I'm walking down the street and someone walks up to me and punches me in the face. Who's dominant? If I fall on the ground crying then I have made the other person dominant in that situation by submitting. But what if I hit them back? Does that make me dominant? It all depends on what the other person does. And so it goes.
Back to the question, what are we seeing? One thing may be play behavior. Play in dogs is usually mock hunting or mock sexual behavior. In mock hunting, the dogs will chase, nip, soft-bite, etc. One dog may roll over on his back, exposing his belly, but the dog does this willingly. This can also be a way for one to say to the other "I'm am not a threat. We are just playing."
In another instance, we need to remember that dogs are much more scent oriented than we are. When greeting, we've all seen dogs sniff each other's back sides and genitals. One dog my roll over to expose their genitals and make them more accessible.
And another instance would be access to a resource, whether it's a toy, food, or whatever one or both dogs may want. In the face of a potential conflict, one dog may submit to the other saying "you want that much more than I do, so you go ahead." As shown the Bristol study ("Dominance in domestic dogs – useful construct or bad habit?," October 2009) that may change depending on the next resource, situation and desire for that resource.
The take away message is that dogs are not dominant by nature, they do not Alpha Roll, and even if they did, we could not tell when it would be appropriate, and all it does is scare your dog and damage your relationship.
http://companionanimalsolutions.com/blogs/dangers-of-alpha-rolling/
Monday, May 16, 2011
Bite Prevention Week
Sunday marked the beginning of Bite Prevention Week. Since opening the store I've been bitten four times. Three of them were my fault and one of them was partially my fault (I turned my back on a dog I knew to be people aggressive and the owner lost their attention for a split second). Fortunately all of the bites were very inhibited and didn't even break the skin.
I only mention this to illustrate a point. I've studied dog behavior and communication. I've probably been around thousands of dogs. And still I've had occasion to be bitten. So how do you avoid being bitten?
1. If you are unfamiliar with the dog, ask before petting.
2. Do not approach a dog head on. Notice when dogs greet, they tend to approach each other at an angle. When I greet an unfamiliar dog who seems a bit uneasy, I kneel down and position myself sideways. I then extend my hand just far enough so he can approach me, but not so close that I invade his space.
3. Know the signs. Dogs communicate with body language. Most dogs who may bite are fear bitters, meaning they bite because they are scared and are trying to get the person to back away. But the bite is usually a last ditch effort.
Signs to look for can include lowered head and/or body, ears close to the head and back, tail down and between the legs, lip licking, yawning, looking away, piloerection (hair standing up), snarling, growling, etc. A side note: These behaviors should not be punished. This is how dogs communicate they are uncomfortable. Instead you should try to diffuse the situation and work on some desensitization, a blog for another time.
A final note, and then a few links to illustrations: It doesn't matter how "good" you are with animals, some dogs are not going to like you. You can be the kindest, most gentle person in the world, but you may have to same hair color as someone who startled the dog, for example. That's just the way it is. It does not mean you should put yourself in peril or overstress a dog to the point that he may bite.
Dr. Sophia Yin has a great PSA put together. It's a little over 30 seconds long, but you may want to pause it a few times to check all the information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrQ1KO4j2bc
This is a poster, also from Dr. Yin, on the more common signals I mentioned above, free for download: http://info.drsophiayin.com/free-poster-on-body-language-in-dogs/
I only mention this to illustrate a point. I've studied dog behavior and communication. I've probably been around thousands of dogs. And still I've had occasion to be bitten. So how do you avoid being bitten?
1. If you are unfamiliar with the dog, ask before petting.
2. Do not approach a dog head on. Notice when dogs greet, they tend to approach each other at an angle. When I greet an unfamiliar dog who seems a bit uneasy, I kneel down and position myself sideways. I then extend my hand just far enough so he can approach me, but not so close that I invade his space.
3. Know the signs. Dogs communicate with body language. Most dogs who may bite are fear bitters, meaning they bite because they are scared and are trying to get the person to back away. But the bite is usually a last ditch effort.
Signs to look for can include lowered head and/or body, ears close to the head and back, tail down and between the legs, lip licking, yawning, looking away, piloerection (hair standing up), snarling, growling, etc. A side note: These behaviors should not be punished. This is how dogs communicate they are uncomfortable. Instead you should try to diffuse the situation and work on some desensitization, a blog for another time.
A final note, and then a few links to illustrations: It doesn't matter how "good" you are with animals, some dogs are not going to like you. You can be the kindest, most gentle person in the world, but you may have to same hair color as someone who startled the dog, for example. That's just the way it is. It does not mean you should put yourself in peril or overstress a dog to the point that he may bite.
Dr. Sophia Yin has a great PSA put together. It's a little over 30 seconds long, but you may want to pause it a few times to check all the information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrQ1KO4j2bc
This is a poster, also from Dr. Yin, on the more common signals I mentioned above, free for download: http://info.drsophiayin.com/free-poster-on-body-language-in-dogs/
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Name Change
I was thinking about how I wanted to approach this and it reminded me that I haven't posted some information I intended to. So let me start by saying the Central Missouri Humane Society has been overwhelmed lately and is looking for foster homes. I'll have more information about that up shortly, but consider fostering if you have the space and desire to help out.
That being said, we're also seeing a lot of dogs coming in that have been recently adopted. (Reminder that dogs who have been adopted from a non-profit get a 50% discount on self-serve washes within the first 30 days of adoption.) Some of the dogs get a name change with their new life, so I wanted to give a few tips to make this go smoothly and quickly.
Remember that all good things should come from you. A dog will come to you more consistently if it is a good thing. For example, when you take your dog to the park, call him, praise him, and then let him go back to playing, sniffing, or whatever. About the fourth or fifth time you call him, he is much more likely to come so you can put the leash on him and go home. Hearing his name and coming to you is not always a bad thing. So his name becomes a good thing.
When you want to change a dogs name, there are two easy ways to do this. First is just simply using the name. Every time you interact with the dog, use his new name. Not sweety, or silly or good boy (unless that his name). Without getting into the science of this, he should quickly learn that this is his new name. This worked for both our dogs, Lambert and Cletus... I mean Puck and Duncan.
The second way you can do this is more of a classical training (or respondent conditioning) technique. Say the dog's new name. When he looks at you, give him a treat. Repeat this until he looks at you quickly and consistently. After he looks at you without hesitation about five times you can start to fade the treat. Give the treat every second or third time. eventually you can fade the treat completely. I would have every member in the family do this so the dog learns to respond to everyone.
If this goes slow at first, back up in the procedure a little. Say the dog's old name. As soon as he looks at you, say the new name. Repeat this a few times until he understands the new name means treat, then go to the steps in the previous paragraph.
Again, until he responds consistently to his new name, you want to avoid using "pet" names (pun intended) for him, just to avoid confusion.
That being said, we're also seeing a lot of dogs coming in that have been recently adopted. (Reminder that dogs who have been adopted from a non-profit get a 50% discount on self-serve washes within the first 30 days of adoption.) Some of the dogs get a name change with their new life, so I wanted to give a few tips to make this go smoothly and quickly.
Remember that all good things should come from you. A dog will come to you more consistently if it is a good thing. For example, when you take your dog to the park, call him, praise him, and then let him go back to playing, sniffing, or whatever. About the fourth or fifth time you call him, he is much more likely to come so you can put the leash on him and go home. Hearing his name and coming to you is not always a bad thing. So his name becomes a good thing.
When you want to change a dogs name, there are two easy ways to do this. First is just simply using the name. Every time you interact with the dog, use his new name. Not sweety, or silly or good boy (unless that his name). Without getting into the science of this, he should quickly learn that this is his new name. This worked for both our dogs, Lambert and Cletus... I mean Puck and Duncan.
The second way you can do this is more of a classical training (or respondent conditioning) technique. Say the dog's new name. When he looks at you, give him a treat. Repeat this until he looks at you quickly and consistently. After he looks at you without hesitation about five times you can start to fade the treat. Give the treat every second or third time. eventually you can fade the treat completely. I would have every member in the family do this so the dog learns to respond to everyone.
If this goes slow at first, back up in the procedure a little. Say the dog's old name. As soon as he looks at you, say the new name. Repeat this a few times until he understands the new name means treat, then go to the steps in the previous paragraph.
Again, until he responds consistently to his new name, you want to avoid using "pet" names (pun intended) for him, just to avoid confusion.
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
A little more about methods
When I talk to other trainers I tend to get specific and speak in scientific terms. Things like Differential Reinforcement, Discriminative Stimulus, the Four Quadrants, etc. When I speak to customers, students, or the public at large, I tend to speak in much broader, general terms. It's kind of like me not needing to know about programming when I get my computer worked on. I did want to get a little more specific though about something I mentioned in my last blog: clicker or marker training.
In my last blog, I grossly generalized clicker training. Now that we have the basics, I wanted to get a little more specific. Basically how it works is you use a unique stimulus to mark a behavior. This is a way to tell the dog he has done something correctly at the moment it occurs. Because the marker (click or a specific word) has been paired with a reinforcer (food, praise, etc.), it tells the dog that when he hears the marker a reinforcer is coming. It really isn't so much a training technique as it is a system of reinforcement.
I like to use a clicker because it is a unique sound that carries very well over most noise. In class we tend to use the word "yesssss," drawing out the "s" to make the sound unique so as not to be confused with just saying "yes" in regular conversation. This saves you from having to carry around something extra in your pocket. For the purposes of the rest of the blog I'll refer to "click" as whatever marker you like to use. I will also refer to any reinforcer you care to use as "treat" even though it can be praise, a favorite toy, or anything the dog enjoys.
First you have to start by "charging" the clicker. You simply have the dog close to you, click and treat. The treat should follow the click within about a second to be the most effective. The more the dog wants the treat, the faster this will work. It should only take very few repetitions before he starts to associate the sound with the reinforcer. Once this pairing has taken place you will be able to delay the delivery of the treat because the click will elicit the same emotional response as the treat. I was able to charge the clicker with my dogs in about 2 minutes, but would start any training for about 2 more weeks by charging, just to make sure it was stable.
Now, if I am working on a sit, I can ask Duncan to sit, and as soon as his bottom hits the floor, click and treat. If I'm working on target training, as soon as his nose hits the target, click and treat. Whatever the training, as soon as it happens, I can mark it and he knows a treat is coming.
The two most common questions I hear at this point are "How do you get the behavior for a longer period of time?" and "What if you don't have a clicker or treat handy?"
To get the behavior to last longer, we'll take the sit for an example. Have the dog sit, and as soon as he's sitting, click and treat. Once he's sitting without any prompting five to ten times in a row, you can delay the click and treat for about a second. Once he's doing that amount of time consistently, you can delay the click and treat for two seconds, then three, and so on.
Something to remember at this point is to keep the training sessions short at first. You may only want to do about five minutes at first, and in that time you may only get a three second sit inconsistently. In the next training session you'll want to back up one or two steps before you move forward. Once he gets used to the training routine you can go for about 15 minutes, but usually it's not recommended to go longer than that. You can do two or three training sessions a day, but be aware of your dog's boredom and/or stress levels.
The point of training a behavior is so the dog will respond in real-life situations. In real-life, you won't always have a clicker or treats on hand. If you don't have a treat, don't click. The click means a treat is coming and if you that pairing doesn't happen, it will begin to lose its affect.
When you ask for a behavior - we'll use the sit again - if the behavior has a history of being reinforced, he is more likely to offer the behavior even if it does not get the click and treat. You don't want to do this too often, but enough that you will get a response in those real-life instances. Think of a slot machine. A person may not be reinforced - hit a jackpot - every time they put a quarter in, but it happens often enough that some people will still offer the behavior - keep playing - for hours on end. As long as the behavior has a history of reinforcement, there's no reason you can't get the behavior at any time.
Something to keep in mind with clicker training: it was popularized with training sea mammals. This is how killer whales and dolphins are trainer. It has also been shown to work by coaches training athletes such as swimmers and gymnasts. It can work on any vertebrate from fish to lizards to dogs.
Maybe later I'll do an entry about why clicker training works so well, but this is more about method, so I'll stop there for now.
In my last blog, I grossly generalized clicker training. Now that we have the basics, I wanted to get a little more specific. Basically how it works is you use a unique stimulus to mark a behavior. This is a way to tell the dog he has done something correctly at the moment it occurs. Because the marker (click or a specific word) has been paired with a reinforcer (food, praise, etc.), it tells the dog that when he hears the marker a reinforcer is coming. It really isn't so much a training technique as it is a system of reinforcement.
I like to use a clicker because it is a unique sound that carries very well over most noise. In class we tend to use the word "yesssss," drawing out the "s" to make the sound unique so as not to be confused with just saying "yes" in regular conversation. This saves you from having to carry around something extra in your pocket. For the purposes of the rest of the blog I'll refer to "click" as whatever marker you like to use. I will also refer to any reinforcer you care to use as "treat" even though it can be praise, a favorite toy, or anything the dog enjoys.
First you have to start by "charging" the clicker. You simply have the dog close to you, click and treat. The treat should follow the click within about a second to be the most effective. The more the dog wants the treat, the faster this will work. It should only take very few repetitions before he starts to associate the sound with the reinforcer. Once this pairing has taken place you will be able to delay the delivery of the treat because the click will elicit the same emotional response as the treat. I was able to charge the clicker with my dogs in about 2 minutes, but would start any training for about 2 more weeks by charging, just to make sure it was stable.
Now, if I am working on a sit, I can ask Duncan to sit, and as soon as his bottom hits the floor, click and treat. If I'm working on target training, as soon as his nose hits the target, click and treat. Whatever the training, as soon as it happens, I can mark it and he knows a treat is coming.
The two most common questions I hear at this point are "How do you get the behavior for a longer period of time?" and "What if you don't have a clicker or treat handy?"
To get the behavior to last longer, we'll take the sit for an example. Have the dog sit, and as soon as he's sitting, click and treat. Once he's sitting without any prompting five to ten times in a row, you can delay the click and treat for about a second. Once he's doing that amount of time consistently, you can delay the click and treat for two seconds, then three, and so on.
Something to remember at this point is to keep the training sessions short at first. You may only want to do about five minutes at first, and in that time you may only get a three second sit inconsistently. In the next training session you'll want to back up one or two steps before you move forward. Once he gets used to the training routine you can go for about 15 minutes, but usually it's not recommended to go longer than that. You can do two or three training sessions a day, but be aware of your dog's boredom and/or stress levels.
The point of training a behavior is so the dog will respond in real-life situations. In real-life, you won't always have a clicker or treats on hand. If you don't have a treat, don't click. The click means a treat is coming and if you that pairing doesn't happen, it will begin to lose its affect.
When you ask for a behavior - we'll use the sit again - if the behavior has a history of being reinforced, he is more likely to offer the behavior even if it does not get the click and treat. You don't want to do this too often, but enough that you will get a response in those real-life instances. Think of a slot machine. A person may not be reinforced - hit a jackpot - every time they put a quarter in, but it happens often enough that some people will still offer the behavior - keep playing - for hours on end. As long as the behavior has a history of reinforcement, there's no reason you can't get the behavior at any time.
Something to keep in mind with clicker training: it was popularized with training sea mammals. This is how killer whales and dolphins are trainer. It has also been shown to work by coaches training athletes such as swimmers and gymnasts. It can work on any vertebrate from fish to lizards to dogs.
Maybe later I'll do an entry about why clicker training works so well, but this is more about method, so I'll stop there for now.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Choosing a Trainer and Method
Many of you know I've been sick for a while. Unfortunately, the medicine I was on was an antidepressant that had the side effect of helping my ailment. Good for my headaches, but it made me very unmotivated. So one of the things to suffer was the Mudd Puppies Blog. I'm off the meds and trying to play catch up now. Hopefully I can get back to my schedule of every two weeks to a month. But, enough about that.
Well, a couple of things have gotten me thinking. If you read this blog regularly, you know last October I received my Dog Training Certificate from Companion Animals Sciences Institute (CASI). Since then I have been assisting at the Columbia Canine Sports Center (CCSC). I have the book learnin', now it's time to get the hands on experience.
Last week I sat through the orientation for students as a refresher and to get my next "assignment" for the next session with CCSC. I spoke with Kathy and Ginger after orientation and was surprised when they asked if I wanted to teach a class. After I was able to collect myself I told them I just needed a little time to get a lesson plan together but I'd be willing to give it a try. Truth be told, I'm very excited and very nervous about this, but I've started working on a lesson plan for a puppy class and basic obedience class and believe I'll be teaching next session.
What will be taught is the easy part. What I'm struggling with is the class discussions. I have so much information running around in my head from what I learned with CASI, blogs I read, videos I watch, journals I read, and other trainers I talk to. Not only am I trying to decide what to include, but how to keep it short, concise, and in a way that the students will retain the information.
The thing I've been thinking about the most is training methods. Not what method/s I intend to teach, but how I'll answer if someone asks when they should alpha roll their dog or what to do when their dog tries to dominate them. I saw a video the other day of a trainer touting the virtues of shock collars. These have many different names, but let's call them what they are. I was appalled that this trainer's (I wish I could remember his name, but I tried to erase it from my memory) technique was to slap a shock collar on a dog and call it training. The dogs are trained. A behavior is evoked in the presence of a stimuli, but where's the fun in that for anyone?
I have to wonder why some people get dogs. What's the point if the relationship is a constant struggle. I don't want to spend my time disciplining my dogs. I'd rather have a relationship with a dog who can think for himself and has learned how to make the right decision. I'd rather have a dog that looks to me for the right thing to do, not a dog that cowers because they aren't sure what to do.
I read and hear a lot of people say that dominance is the only thing that works on "red zone cases," but this is absolutely not the case. Most of the cases behaviorists see are aggression cases. The behaviorists I follow have been dealing with "red zone" cases longer than some tv personalities have been alive with as good or better rate of success. Most aggression in dogs stems from fear or insecurity. So first of all, what good is going to come from making a fear aggressive dog fear you? Second, if a fear aggressive dog is fearful, what is the natural response going to be except to protect himself. And third, if you use aversives to train a dog, if he doesn't totally shut down, or even if he does, there is the risk that eventually he will try to protect himself by aggressing. Why risk it when other, less aversive techniques are proven to work?
I personally don't believe you can be an all positive reinforcement trainer. It says to me that a dog can do no wrong or you totally ignore any inappropriate behavior. I would certainly not just sit and watch if one of my dogs raised his leg on the coffee table, for example. I also accept the fact that I use positive punishment - introducing a stimuli to lessen the frequency of a behavior. When I say "no" I've added a stimuli - the word - to lessen the frequency of a behavior - peeing on the coffee table. The most important thing is to use the "least intrusive effective behavior intervention" as James O'Heare calls it.
Why alpha roll your dog if he nips you when a sharp, quick cry of mock pain can teach him bite inhibition? Why use a shock collar to train your dog to sit when using a treat that can be faded can be used to lure him into position and he will learn to enjoy it? Why use aversives to teach an aggressive dog not to be aggressive when you can change the behavior instead of suppressing it by desensitizing him?
One of the things to look for in a trainer is their technique. I see a lot of trainers say positive reinforcement doesn't work, but shock collars do, choke chains do, or whatever method. Any training technique can work as defined above. The thing to remember is it's not an either/or decision.
Positive reinforcement can be clicker training, or target training for example. But you may also incorporate negative punishment - removing a stimuli to decrease the frequency of a behavior. An example of this might be turning your back to a dog - removing your attention - and crossing your arms when a dog jumps up on you. When searching for a trainer, remember that positive reinforcement is not a training method, it defines the method. Likewise, a clicker trainer, although this is my preferred method, may narrow their technique to the point of excluding any other possibilities. A trainer needs to be open to any technique that can work best for each individual dog while remembering to use the least intrusive effective behavior intervention possible.
Before choosing a trainer, find out what they mean by "all positive trainer" or "balanced trainer" or even "clicker trainer." The answer should be that your dog is going to enjoy the training as much as you do.
I want to leave you with two links.
This is another take on choosing a trainer:
http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/when-choosing-dog-trainer-buyer-beware
This is a great example on how to train a dog with an aggression problem:
http://drsophiayin.com/resources/video_full/counter-conditioning_a_dog_to_blowing_in_face
Well, a couple of things have gotten me thinking. If you read this blog regularly, you know last October I received my Dog Training Certificate from Companion Animals Sciences Institute (CASI). Since then I have been assisting at the Columbia Canine Sports Center (CCSC). I have the book learnin', now it's time to get the hands on experience.
Last week I sat through the orientation for students as a refresher and to get my next "assignment" for the next session with CCSC. I spoke with Kathy and Ginger after orientation and was surprised when they asked if I wanted to teach a class. After I was able to collect myself I told them I just needed a little time to get a lesson plan together but I'd be willing to give it a try. Truth be told, I'm very excited and very nervous about this, but I've started working on a lesson plan for a puppy class and basic obedience class and believe I'll be teaching next session.
What will be taught is the easy part. What I'm struggling with is the class discussions. I have so much information running around in my head from what I learned with CASI, blogs I read, videos I watch, journals I read, and other trainers I talk to. Not only am I trying to decide what to include, but how to keep it short, concise, and in a way that the students will retain the information.
The thing I've been thinking about the most is training methods. Not what method/s I intend to teach, but how I'll answer if someone asks when they should alpha roll their dog or what to do when their dog tries to dominate them. I saw a video the other day of a trainer touting the virtues of shock collars. These have many different names, but let's call them what they are. I was appalled that this trainer's (I wish I could remember his name, but I tried to erase it from my memory) technique was to slap a shock collar on a dog and call it training. The dogs are trained. A behavior is evoked in the presence of a stimuli, but where's the fun in that for anyone?
I have to wonder why some people get dogs. What's the point if the relationship is a constant struggle. I don't want to spend my time disciplining my dogs. I'd rather have a relationship with a dog who can think for himself and has learned how to make the right decision. I'd rather have a dog that looks to me for the right thing to do, not a dog that cowers because they aren't sure what to do.
I read and hear a lot of people say that dominance is the only thing that works on "red zone cases," but this is absolutely not the case. Most of the cases behaviorists see are aggression cases. The behaviorists I follow have been dealing with "red zone" cases longer than some tv personalities have been alive with as good or better rate of success. Most aggression in dogs stems from fear or insecurity. So first of all, what good is going to come from making a fear aggressive dog fear you? Second, if a fear aggressive dog is fearful, what is the natural response going to be except to protect himself. And third, if you use aversives to train a dog, if he doesn't totally shut down, or even if he does, there is the risk that eventually he will try to protect himself by aggressing. Why risk it when other, less aversive techniques are proven to work?
I personally don't believe you can be an all positive reinforcement trainer. It says to me that a dog can do no wrong or you totally ignore any inappropriate behavior. I would certainly not just sit and watch if one of my dogs raised his leg on the coffee table, for example. I also accept the fact that I use positive punishment - introducing a stimuli to lessen the frequency of a behavior. When I say "no" I've added a stimuli - the word - to lessen the frequency of a behavior - peeing on the coffee table. The most important thing is to use the "least intrusive effective behavior intervention" as James O'Heare calls it.
Why alpha roll your dog if he nips you when a sharp, quick cry of mock pain can teach him bite inhibition? Why use a shock collar to train your dog to sit when using a treat that can be faded can be used to lure him into position and he will learn to enjoy it? Why use aversives to teach an aggressive dog not to be aggressive when you can change the behavior instead of suppressing it by desensitizing him?
One of the things to look for in a trainer is their technique. I see a lot of trainers say positive reinforcement doesn't work, but shock collars do, choke chains do, or whatever method. Any training technique can work as defined above. The thing to remember is it's not an either/or decision.
Positive reinforcement can be clicker training, or target training for example. But you may also incorporate negative punishment - removing a stimuli to decrease the frequency of a behavior. An example of this might be turning your back to a dog - removing your attention - and crossing your arms when a dog jumps up on you. When searching for a trainer, remember that positive reinforcement is not a training method, it defines the method. Likewise, a clicker trainer, although this is my preferred method, may narrow their technique to the point of excluding any other possibilities. A trainer needs to be open to any technique that can work best for each individual dog while remembering to use the least intrusive effective behavior intervention possible.
Before choosing a trainer, find out what they mean by "all positive trainer" or "balanced trainer" or even "clicker trainer." The answer should be that your dog is going to enjoy the training as much as you do.
I want to leave you with two links.
This is another take on choosing a trainer:
http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/when-choosing-dog-trainer-buyer-beware
This is a great example on how to train a dog with an aggression problem:
http://drsophiayin.com/resources/video_full/counter-conditioning_a_dog_to_blowing_in_face
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Dogs walking ahead
This goes back to one of my favorite topics: dominance. Specifically, dogs walking ahead.
So, here's the scenario: I had stepped out of our walk-out basement the other day with Duncan, my Brittany. When we came in, Duncan went in the door first and went up the stairs ahead of me. How many indications of dominance do you see in this scenario?
Okay, I held a few things back, just to get to my point. First, consider locomotion, or the way we move. Bipedal locomotion is very impractical when compared to the alternative. Sure it has its advantages. Some scientist believe standing upright is a major contributing factor to our high intelligence as a species. But think about the species that can choose between walking on two legs or four. The first that come to my mind are bears and gorillas. When they want to move quickly or more efficiently they move on all fours.
Dogs are designed to move on all fours. They simply move faster than we do. How often have you seen someone chasing after a dog who is quickly outdistancing them? Consider that the second fastest land animal, after the Cheetah, is the dog - specifically the Greyhound.
So back to the previous scenario. When I was ready to go back inside, I called Duncan. He ran up to the door and I told him "back" so I could get the door open. I then told him "inside" because I didn't want to trip over him and the way the door is positioned it's awkward to hold it open while I wait for him to come in. He waited for me in the basement while I locked the door and when he saw me coming he started up the stairs. I'd rather have him go first than try to pass me because I'm slower than he is. He would walk up three or four steps, stop and look at me to check if I was still coming, up three or four more and check, all the way up. Even with his stopping and going, he still made it up the stairs much quicker than me.
All of this taken together does not at any time show a dominate dog. It shows my consideration for both of our safety and my understanding that this is a dog who can move more efficiently than I can. It does not show a dog who is trying to dominate me, but a dog who listens and constantly checks with me because he wants to be with me.
So, here's the scenario: I had stepped out of our walk-out basement the other day with Duncan, my Brittany. When we came in, Duncan went in the door first and went up the stairs ahead of me. How many indications of dominance do you see in this scenario?
Okay, I held a few things back, just to get to my point. First, consider locomotion, or the way we move. Bipedal locomotion is very impractical when compared to the alternative. Sure it has its advantages. Some scientist believe standing upright is a major contributing factor to our high intelligence as a species. But think about the species that can choose between walking on two legs or four. The first that come to my mind are bears and gorillas. When they want to move quickly or more efficiently they move on all fours.
Dogs are designed to move on all fours. They simply move faster than we do. How often have you seen someone chasing after a dog who is quickly outdistancing them? Consider that the second fastest land animal, after the Cheetah, is the dog - specifically the Greyhound.
So back to the previous scenario. When I was ready to go back inside, I called Duncan. He ran up to the door and I told him "back" so I could get the door open. I then told him "inside" because I didn't want to trip over him and the way the door is positioned it's awkward to hold it open while I wait for him to come in. He waited for me in the basement while I locked the door and when he saw me coming he started up the stairs. I'd rather have him go first than try to pass me because I'm slower than he is. He would walk up three or four steps, stop and look at me to check if I was still coming, up three or four more and check, all the way up. Even with his stopping and going, he still made it up the stairs much quicker than me.
All of this taken together does not at any time show a dominate dog. It shows my consideration for both of our safety and my understanding that this is a dog who can move more efficiently than I can. It does not show a dog who is trying to dominate me, but a dog who listens and constantly checks with me because he wants to be with me.
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Challenge
I've been at a loss for topics lately. That, coupled with my evenings getting a bit busier has made me neglectful of this blog. Part of my schedule has been taken up by my helping at the Columbia Canine Sports Center. As followers of this blog know, I received my Dog Training Certificate from Companion Animal Sciences Institute last October. Now, thanks to CCSC, I'm taking that classroom knowledge and applying it to real life situations.
I'm currently assisting in my third class with as many instructors. Each one has something unique to offer and has me constantly thinking about what pieces I want to implement when I start leading my own classes, and what parts can I leave behind. I should preface this by saying I haven't disagreed with any of the techniques, it's just a matter of preferences.
I also spend my time reading blogs, journals, newsletters, articles, research papers, and just about anything else I can get my hands on. Of course I give preference to those people who seem to fall in line with my way of thinking, but I try to read those which I don't agree with when I have time. It helps keep me abreast of the discussions in the field and what the stance is of both sides of any argument. I hope I am open minded enough, that if a viable argument was presented I would incorporate the new found knowledge into my own philosophies and techniques.
So, what this is all leading to: It really irks me when some of these people turn to name calling and trash talk when they disagree with someone. Maybe it's just the sites I frequent, but it's not surprising to me that usually the ones who start casting aspersions are the people who subscribe to force training and dominance theory. Even in the face of hard scientific evidence they refuse to deviate from their beliefs.
Something to consider is the definition of training. In simplest, scientific terms, training is the change of behavior in the presence of a stimulus. So is force training or dominance actually training? By definition, it is. But it is at the risk of flooding or learned helplessness. Not only do these techniques risk damaging the relationship, but the trainee will usually only perform the behavior to the point of avoiding the aversive.
With these techniques, the trainer is not teaching what is expected, but rather what behavior is unwanted. For instance, asking a dog to sit but he stands. A leash jerk is applied, and the dog doesn't learn to sit, but learns NOT to stand.
With a reinforcement training, the desired behavior is reinforced. The trainee is learning what IS expected. Not only will you get the desired behavior, but in the long run the trainee will not only present the desired behavior, but will offer it in better qualities and quantities.
Another argument along the same vein is that there is not just one way to train or teach. I agree completely. I've worked with and trained using target training, marker training, and, I'm loathe to say, dominance training, just to name a few. But at the end of the day I want a dog that is going to do what I ask because he WANTS to, not because he feels he HAS to.
Truth be told, I've gotten into discussions with other reinforcement trainers with whom I disagreed. But I've learned so much from them, even if it was just finding the evidence to backup and reinforce my position. And these people, I've always had very frank, open discussion that did not deteriorate to name calling.
In my blogs, I try to present an overview of the information, then give a list of resources so you can read it for yourself and draw your own conclusions. The information is out there. I challenge everyone to read it and draw your own conclusion, and not just get your information from sensationalized television shows.
I'm currently assisting in my third class with as many instructors. Each one has something unique to offer and has me constantly thinking about what pieces I want to implement when I start leading my own classes, and what parts can I leave behind. I should preface this by saying I haven't disagreed with any of the techniques, it's just a matter of preferences.
I also spend my time reading blogs, journals, newsletters, articles, research papers, and just about anything else I can get my hands on. Of course I give preference to those people who seem to fall in line with my way of thinking, but I try to read those which I don't agree with when I have time. It helps keep me abreast of the discussions in the field and what the stance is of both sides of any argument. I hope I am open minded enough, that if a viable argument was presented I would incorporate the new found knowledge into my own philosophies and techniques.
So, what this is all leading to: It really irks me when some of these people turn to name calling and trash talk when they disagree with someone. Maybe it's just the sites I frequent, but it's not surprising to me that usually the ones who start casting aspersions are the people who subscribe to force training and dominance theory. Even in the face of hard scientific evidence they refuse to deviate from their beliefs.
Something to consider is the definition of training. In simplest, scientific terms, training is the change of behavior in the presence of a stimulus. So is force training or dominance actually training? By definition, it is. But it is at the risk of flooding or learned helplessness. Not only do these techniques risk damaging the relationship, but the trainee will usually only perform the behavior to the point of avoiding the aversive.
With these techniques, the trainer is not teaching what is expected, but rather what behavior is unwanted. For instance, asking a dog to sit but he stands. A leash jerk is applied, and the dog doesn't learn to sit, but learns NOT to stand.
With a reinforcement training, the desired behavior is reinforced. The trainee is learning what IS expected. Not only will you get the desired behavior, but in the long run the trainee will not only present the desired behavior, but will offer it in better qualities and quantities.
Another argument along the same vein is that there is not just one way to train or teach. I agree completely. I've worked with and trained using target training, marker training, and, I'm loathe to say, dominance training, just to name a few. But at the end of the day I want a dog that is going to do what I ask because he WANTS to, not because he feels he HAS to.
Truth be told, I've gotten into discussions with other reinforcement trainers with whom I disagreed. But I've learned so much from them, even if it was just finding the evidence to backup and reinforce my position. And these people, I've always had very frank, open discussion that did not deteriorate to name calling.
In my blogs, I try to present an overview of the information, then give a list of resources so you can read it for yourself and draw your own conclusions. The information is out there. I challenge everyone to read it and draw your own conclusion, and not just get your information from sensationalized television shows.
Thursday, February 3, 2011
One "Jerk"
Mudd Puppies Self Serve Dog Wash, LLC
I know I've talked about this before, but it always bares repeating. A friend just shared an excellent article/blog with me about the dangers of choke collars. Here are a few things to help keep this in perspective.
It's been determined that dogs feel pain about the same way people do. The difference is dogs are still predatory enough that it is preferable to mask or hide pain. If a predator shows pain or weakness they then become prey, so it is better to hide that pain from potential predators. Stories are often told about dogs who have some trauma and the people didn't know about it until it had escalated to a serious problem. This is why.
With that in mind, I've seen a lot of trainers and sales people downplay the harm choke chains and prong collars can do by telling people to put it on their arm. The human arm has a lot of muscle and fat, so it is not a true representation. Feel your dog's neck. Just like yours, you can feel the vertebrae, tendons, arteries, and esophagus just like your own neck. There is not a lot of muscle or fat to protect these things like in your arm. If you want a true representation of what these collars feel like to your dog, put it on your own neck.
The other thing to remember is every collar used with domestic animal are full pulling... except dogs. I saw it put this way once: If I push on you, your natural instinct is to push back so I don't knock you over.
My personal belief is collars should only be used as a place to hang tags. If you have a problem puller I recommend two things. First is a head halter. These work like the bridle of horse. Dogs don't have a lot of lateral strength (side to side) so when they start to move ahead they are turned away from where they want to go. These are a great temporary tool for teaching loose leash walking. With these halters, you should never jerk the leash and I recommend fading them as quickly as possible. The down side is some dogs find them uncomfortable. Also, if they are jerked (whether by the fault of the dog or the person) it can cause some damage, so care does need to be taken.
The other option is a body harness. There are several different designs and you just have to find one that works for you. Some connect on the front and use the physics of that lateral strength to keep the dog from pulling. Others connect to the back and "lift" the dog when he starts to pull. The disadvantage front connecting harness is the dogs can get a bit tangled in the leash. With the back connecting harness, the dogs can get a little force against them, more than the halter or front connecting harness, but less than a collar.
With all the pluses and minuses of these options, I think they still far outweigh the damage that can be done with a prong collar, choke collar, or even a regular collar.
http://www.peterdobias.com/community/2009/05/one-jerk-can-cause-a-lot-of-damage/
I know I've talked about this before, but it always bares repeating. A friend just shared an excellent article/blog with me about the dangers of choke collars. Here are a few things to help keep this in perspective.
It's been determined that dogs feel pain about the same way people do. The difference is dogs are still predatory enough that it is preferable to mask or hide pain. If a predator shows pain or weakness they then become prey, so it is better to hide that pain from potential predators. Stories are often told about dogs who have some trauma and the people didn't know about it until it had escalated to a serious problem. This is why.
With that in mind, I've seen a lot of trainers and sales people downplay the harm choke chains and prong collars can do by telling people to put it on their arm. The human arm has a lot of muscle and fat, so it is not a true representation. Feel your dog's neck. Just like yours, you can feel the vertebrae, tendons, arteries, and esophagus just like your own neck. There is not a lot of muscle or fat to protect these things like in your arm. If you want a true representation of what these collars feel like to your dog, put it on your own neck.
The other thing to remember is every collar used with domestic animal are full pulling... except dogs. I saw it put this way once: If I push on you, your natural instinct is to push back so I don't knock you over.
My personal belief is collars should only be used as a place to hang tags. If you have a problem puller I recommend two things. First is a head halter. These work like the bridle of horse. Dogs don't have a lot of lateral strength (side to side) so when they start to move ahead they are turned away from where they want to go. These are a great temporary tool for teaching loose leash walking. With these halters, you should never jerk the leash and I recommend fading them as quickly as possible. The down side is some dogs find them uncomfortable. Also, if they are jerked (whether by the fault of the dog or the person) it can cause some damage, so care does need to be taken.
The other option is a body harness. There are several different designs and you just have to find one that works for you. Some connect on the front and use the physics of that lateral strength to keep the dog from pulling. Others connect to the back and "lift" the dog when he starts to pull. The disadvantage front connecting harness is the dogs can get a bit tangled in the leash. With the back connecting harness, the dogs can get a little force against them, more than the halter or front connecting harness, but less than a collar.
With all the pluses and minuses of these options, I think they still far outweigh the damage that can be done with a prong collar, choke collar, or even a regular collar.
http://www.peterdobias.com/community/2009/05/one-jerk-can-cause-a-lot-of-damage/
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
I have a crazy idea
A few days ago my wife and daughter came home from the library with a children's book about dogs. So I of course picked it up and flipped through it. The artwork was beautiful, made from different papers cut to shape. So I read a bit of it and was appalled at the content.
I checked the publication date and the book is only three years old. For being such a new book, the information is very outdated and filled with misconceptions that have been disproved long before the book was published.
So, I had a crazy idea. I actually went to college for fine arts and mass media. I spent 20 years as a graphic artist and desktop publisher. So, why not write and illustrate a children's book about dogs myself?
Now I can explain that dogs do not pack like people think wolves do. Although they are very close on the evolutionary timeline, there is some discussion as to whether dogs evolved from wolves, other canidae, or independently. How dogs may have been bred by early man. A wagging tail does not always mean a dog is happy or wants to play. How dogs smile. And a number of other topics explained in a way I hope my 4 year old can understand.
I happen to have some friends of friends who either are or work for publishers, so hopefully that will give me an in and I won't have to self-publish. Guess we'll see how that goes. I'm excited to see how it turns out and will keep everyone updated on the progress.
I've written the outline and first draft and I am picking up some reference material for the art today.
I checked the publication date and the book is only three years old. For being such a new book, the information is very outdated and filled with misconceptions that have been disproved long before the book was published.
So, I had a crazy idea. I actually went to college for fine arts and mass media. I spent 20 years as a graphic artist and desktop publisher. So, why not write and illustrate a children's book about dogs myself?
Now I can explain that dogs do not pack like people think wolves do. Although they are very close on the evolutionary timeline, there is some discussion as to whether dogs evolved from wolves, other canidae, or independently. How dogs may have been bred by early man. A wagging tail does not always mean a dog is happy or wants to play. How dogs smile. And a number of other topics explained in a way I hope my 4 year old can understand.
I happen to have some friends of friends who either are or work for publishers, so hopefully that will give me an in and I won't have to self-publish. Guess we'll see how that goes. I'm excited to see how it turns out and will keep everyone updated on the progress.
I've written the outline and first draft and I am picking up some reference material for the art today.
Friday, January 14, 2011
Entrance Anxiety
So the question was posed: I'd like to see you discuss how to get dogs into your business who might be scared. I'd love to bring my dog by, but I can only get her in if I pick her up and carry her through the door. She won't even go in for pastrami.
There's a lot written about counter conditioning your dog for the vet, which is a nice model, but obviously not quite the same. So, unfortunately I wasn't able to find a good reference, but there is a lot of information out there on counter conditioning and desensitization.
I'll preface this by saying I know the person who posted the question personally and a little bit about her situation, but I'll speak in much broader terms to cover the topic more thoroughly. So, here's my take on it, in an ideal world: The first step is to identify when exactly does the problem start. Do you see signs of anxiety when you first go to the car? Is it when you pull into the parking lot? When you walk up to the door?
Let's say she starts showing signs of anxiety when she gets in the car. How counter conditioning works is to make a good association with something that was bad. By forcing the dog into the car, you run the risk of flooding or learned helpless which I won't get into here but to say that it can lead to worse problems we want to avoid. We're trying to change behavior, not suppress it.
People who read my blog will also know that I am not a fan of positive punishment (leash corrections, hitting, etc.). All we would do in this instance is teach her that every time she gets close to the car she is punished. I won't go any further into that here either, but you should be able to see the down side to that.
So we might start by getting as close to as the dog can tolerate without going past threshold. For example, you can get to within 20 feet. Every time she looks at the car, give her a reinforcer, whether it's a treat, a favorite toy, praise, or whatever. Anything that makes her feel good, and it should be high value. Instead of the usual cookie, use a piece of liver (just a pea sized piece is plenty). It should be something that is only used in training, and not for everyday.
Once she associates the car with good things, move a little close. It may be as little as one step, or as much as 1/2 the distance. Just be sure she stays under threshold (freaking out to the point of ignoring everything else). You may even introduce having another person open the car door. When she looks at the car, treat, then have the person close the door. Eventually work her in this way with the car door left open.
Once she is comfortable working next to the car with the door open, instead of giving her the treat, put it on the door frame so she doesn't have to get in the car, but has to interact with it. Next, put the treat just inside the car, and so on. Something that may also help is opening the door on the opposite side so she can see a way out and doesn't feel trapped. Obviously you'll want to phase this out.
When she is comfortable getting into the car, close the door for literally one second, then open it and let her out. After a few trials of one second, go to two, then three, and so on. Then start the car, let it run for a second, then turn it off, and so on. To make the association stronger, once you can drive her in the car, go to the dog park or a puppy play date, or something really fun.
It's kind of like a recall. A lot of people complain that their dog won't come to them. Well, these people call their dog, the dog comes and they get the leash slapped on them and they go home or the get thrown in the crate or in some way they don't get to continue their play. What I do every time I take my dog out is call him, he comes, I reinforce the come, then let him go back to playing, sniffing or whatever. Only about one in five times do I put the leash on him and go home or make him go inside, or otherwise end the play. Likewise, only about one in five times she gets in the car should you go to the vet or the dog wash, or somewhere that might not be so fun.
Once she has a positive association with the car, you may want to come to the store, park away from the store, like down by the ATM kiosk, and work your way to the store in the same manner you worked your way to the car. If you want to start opening and closing the door to the store though, just let us know so we're not wondering what's going on.
Another option may be to bring the dog into the store and just sit down with her. Give her a few things to do like sit, down, or anything to preoccupy her. Then leave with her. A few days later, come back and do the same thing. If she's calm enough, maybe by the third or fourth time you could put her in a tub. Spend a minute letting her get used to the idea, then out of the tub, another sit or two, then leave. I have to say this would not be my first suggestion depending on the amount of anxiety, because again, we don't want to flood her or put her in a state of learned helplessness. I would really only recommend this in extreme cases (like having been sprayed by a skunk) or very mild cases.
This may seem like a lot of work and very time consuming, and honestly, it could take minutes, or it could take weeks. But it should change the behavior, not suppress it, and in the end, everyone should be happier for it.
One final note: According to Dr. Patricia McConnell in her May 4, 2009 blog (http://www.theotherendoftheleash.com/you-cant-reinforce-fear-dogs-and-thunderstorms), "You can't reinforce fear." In the context she speaks of it, and in this context, I believe she is absolutely correct. So go ahead and comfort your dog when she's stressed, anxious, or fearful. It may not help, but it certainly won't hurt.
There's a lot written about counter conditioning your dog for the vet, which is a nice model, but obviously not quite the same. So, unfortunately I wasn't able to find a good reference, but there is a lot of information out there on counter conditioning and desensitization.
I'll preface this by saying I know the person who posted the question personally and a little bit about her situation, but I'll speak in much broader terms to cover the topic more thoroughly. So, here's my take on it, in an ideal world: The first step is to identify when exactly does the problem start. Do you see signs of anxiety when you first go to the car? Is it when you pull into the parking lot? When you walk up to the door?
Let's say she starts showing signs of anxiety when she gets in the car. How counter conditioning works is to make a good association with something that was bad. By forcing the dog into the car, you run the risk of flooding or learned helpless which I won't get into here but to say that it can lead to worse problems we want to avoid. We're trying to change behavior, not suppress it.
People who read my blog will also know that I am not a fan of positive punishment (leash corrections, hitting, etc.). All we would do in this instance is teach her that every time she gets close to the car she is punished. I won't go any further into that here either, but you should be able to see the down side to that.
So we might start by getting as close to as the dog can tolerate without going past threshold. For example, you can get to within 20 feet. Every time she looks at the car, give her a reinforcer, whether it's a treat, a favorite toy, praise, or whatever. Anything that makes her feel good, and it should be high value. Instead of the usual cookie, use a piece of liver (just a pea sized piece is plenty). It should be something that is only used in training, and not for everyday.
Once she associates the car with good things, move a little close. It may be as little as one step, or as much as 1/2 the distance. Just be sure she stays under threshold (freaking out to the point of ignoring everything else). You may even introduce having another person open the car door. When she looks at the car, treat, then have the person close the door. Eventually work her in this way with the car door left open.
Once she is comfortable working next to the car with the door open, instead of giving her the treat, put it on the door frame so she doesn't have to get in the car, but has to interact with it. Next, put the treat just inside the car, and so on. Something that may also help is opening the door on the opposite side so she can see a way out and doesn't feel trapped. Obviously you'll want to phase this out.
When she is comfortable getting into the car, close the door for literally one second, then open it and let her out. After a few trials of one second, go to two, then three, and so on. Then start the car, let it run for a second, then turn it off, and so on. To make the association stronger, once you can drive her in the car, go to the dog park or a puppy play date, or something really fun.
It's kind of like a recall. A lot of people complain that their dog won't come to them. Well, these people call their dog, the dog comes and they get the leash slapped on them and they go home or the get thrown in the crate or in some way they don't get to continue their play. What I do every time I take my dog out is call him, he comes, I reinforce the come, then let him go back to playing, sniffing or whatever. Only about one in five times do I put the leash on him and go home or make him go inside, or otherwise end the play. Likewise, only about one in five times she gets in the car should you go to the vet or the dog wash, or somewhere that might not be so fun.
Once she has a positive association with the car, you may want to come to the store, park away from the store, like down by the ATM kiosk, and work your way to the store in the same manner you worked your way to the car. If you want to start opening and closing the door to the store though, just let us know so we're not wondering what's going on.
Another option may be to bring the dog into the store and just sit down with her. Give her a few things to do like sit, down, or anything to preoccupy her. Then leave with her. A few days later, come back and do the same thing. If she's calm enough, maybe by the third or fourth time you could put her in a tub. Spend a minute letting her get used to the idea, then out of the tub, another sit or two, then leave. I have to say this would not be my first suggestion depending on the amount of anxiety, because again, we don't want to flood her or put her in a state of learned helplessness. I would really only recommend this in extreme cases (like having been sprayed by a skunk) or very mild cases.
This may seem like a lot of work and very time consuming, and honestly, it could take minutes, or it could take weeks. But it should change the behavior, not suppress it, and in the end, everyone should be happier for it.
One final note: According to Dr. Patricia McConnell in her May 4, 2009 blog (http://www.theotherendoftheleash.com/you-cant-reinforce-fear-dogs-and-thunderstorms), "You can't reinforce fear." In the context she speaks of it, and in this context, I believe she is absolutely correct. So go ahead and comfort your dog when she's stressed, anxious, or fearful. It may not help, but it certainly won't hurt.
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